Two ways to make cloth
Nearly all clothing fabric is made in one of two ways.
Woven fabric is made on a loom by crossing two sets of yarns at right angles. The lengthwise yarns are the warp and the crosswise yarns are the weft.
Knit fabric is made by looping a yarn through itself, like hand knitting but at machine speed. The loops interlock and can change shape.
The same fiber can be made either way. A cotton poplin shirt is woven, a cotton T-shirt is knit, and they feel and behave quite differently even though both are cotton.
How to tell them apart
- Look closely. Woven cloth shows a grid of crossing threads. Knit cloth shows rows of small, V-shaped loops, most visible on the face of jersey.
- Pull gently. Woven fabric has little stretch along the threads. Knit fabric stretches noticeably, often in both directions.
- Check the edge. A cut woven edge frays into loose threads. A cut knit edge tends to curl rather than fray, and a run can occur if a loop breaks.
Stretch and fit
Knits stretch because their loops open under tension and spring back. This makes them comfortable without needing many seams, darts or closures. T-shirts, sweaters, leggings and sports clothing are usually knit.
Woven cloth gets its shape from the cut and construction, so a woven garment relies on seams, darts, pleats and fastenings to fit. Shirts, tailored trousers and jackets are typically woven. Fit is more precise, but it also leaves less room for error. Good garment fit in woven pieces often depends on the right size across the shoulders, and alterations can help.
There is one important exception. Woven cloth stretches along the diagonal, called the bias, so a bias-cut skirt or slip dress clings and flows in a way a straight-cut one does not. Some wovens also include a small amount of elastane for comfort.
Drape
Drape describes how cloth hangs. Both constructions can drape beautifully, but in different ways.
- Knits generally follow the body. A fine jersey can cling closely, while a heavy knit holds more of its own shape.
- Wovens range from stiff to fluid. Crisp poplin stands away from the body; a soft crepe or satin-weave cloth falls in smooth lines. Weight and weave change a lot, as described in the notes on weight, drape and hand feel.
Wrinkling and appearance
Woven cotton and linen crease easily because the yarns hold folds. Knits tend to hide wrinkles better because the loops allow the cloth to relax, though some knits show creases and others bag out.
Knits can also develop small snags and balls of fuzz. Fabric pilling is common on sweaters and soft jersey, particularly where the fabric rubs. Wovens are less prone to this but can show wear as shiny patches or thinning.
Durability and care
Care differs mainly in how each construction reacts to handling.
- Hanging a heavy knit can stretch it at the shoulders, so many people fold sweaters instead. Seasonal storage advice often says the same for delicate knitwear.
- Washing can cause knits to shrink or distort, especially in warm water and a hot dryer. Wovens may shrink too, but they usually keep their shape better.
- Pressing is more often needed for wovens. A steamer or iron removes creases in wovens, while many knits can be smoothed by hand and left to hang or dry flat.
- Sewing repairs differ: a small hole in a knit can spread if not secured, which is one of the reasons for learning basic mending.
Always check the care label, because the fiber content as well as the construction determines the best method.
Choosing between them
| Need | Often a good fit |
|---|---|
| Comfort and ease of movement | Knit |
| Sharp, structured appearance | Woven |
| Travel with minimal ironing | Knit, or wrinkle-resistant woven |
| Layering under jackets | Light knit |
| Tailored trousers and shirts | Woven |
| Warm, soft layers | Heavier knit |
These are tendencies, not rules. A fine knit can look polished enough for work, and a soft woven can feel relaxed. Mixing the two in one outfit, a knit top under a woven jacket for example, adds variety, and the contrast in feel is part of what makes simple outfits interesting.
A quick test in the shop
- Stretch the fabric gently and see how it recovers.
- Crush a corner in your hand for a few seconds and watch for creases.
- Hold the garment up and notice how it hangs.
- Try it on and move: sit, reach and bend.
Knowing whether a piece is knit or woven makes it easier to predict how it will fit, behave and age.