Two kinds of season
When people say “season” in fashion, they can mean two different things. One is the weather season you live through: spring, summer, fall and winter. The other is the industry season, which is a planning period for a collection. The two overlap but do not line up neatly, and the confusion between them explains a lot of puzzling shop behavior, such as wool coats appearing while it is still hot.
What a collection is
A collection is a group of designs released together, planned to work as a set. It usually shares a theme or mood, a color range and a set of fabrics, and it includes pieces meant to be worn together. A collection might contain a handful of items from a small designer or hundreds from a large retailer.
The industry has traditionally organized collections around two main seasons: one for the warmer part of the year, usually called spring/summer, and one for the cooler part, fall/winter (or fall/winter). Many businesses add extra drops in between, so the traditional pair is more of a framework than a rule.
The planning timeline
Collections are developed far ahead of when customers wear them. The exact timing varies a great deal, but a general sequence looks like this:
- Research and concept. Designers study what sold well, look at cultural shifts, colors, fabrics and shapes, and decide on a direction. Trend forecasting services, trade fairs for fabric and mood boards all feed in here.
- Design development. Sketches become samples, using steps such as those in clothing production. Patterns are made and sizes are graded.
- Presentation to buyers. Designers show the collection to retail buyers, often through showrooms or runway events. Buyers decide what to order, in what quantities and for which stores. Fashion weeks are the best-known public side of this.
- Production. Once orders are in, fabrics are purchased and garments are manufactured. This takes weeks or months, depending on complexity and the supply chain involved.
- Delivery and selling. Garments are shipped to stores, which display them and sell them to the public.
- Markdowns. If items remain unsold toward the end of the period, the retail cycle moves into discounts.
From the first concept to arrival in stores, it is common for this to take close to a year, and sometimes longer for complex or high-end items. Presentations often take place roughly half a year or more ahead of the time the clothes will be in stores. Fast fashion companies compress this process considerably, which is why they can respond more quickly to what is selling.
Additional seasons and drops
Besides the two main seasons, you may see other terms:
- Resort or cruise. Collections designed to arrive between the main seasons, originally for people traveling to warm places during cold months.
- Pre-fall and pre-spring. Smaller collections delivered before the main seasons, usually with more wearable, commercial pieces.
- Capsule collections. A small, focused group of pieces, often released for a limited time.
- Drops. Frequent small releases of new items, common in streetwear. A discussion of that approach appears in streetwear.
These extra collections help stores keep fresh stock and give customers reasons to visit more often. They also mean the number of “seasons” has multiplied for many companies.
Why stores seem out of sync with the weather
Stores generally bring in a season’s goods several weeks before the weather requires them. Some of that reflects the production calendar: deliveries arrive when they arrive. Some reflects retail strategy: a store wants customers to see the new range early, and shoppers who enjoy novelty may buy early. The result is that summer clothes can be marked down just as summer begins and heavy knitwear can appear in late summer.
If you prefer to shop by actual need, you can use that gap to your advantage. Buying off-season items at reduced prices can work well if you know your size, have space to store things and are likely to still want them when the weather changes. Tips for planning around the calendar appear under seasonal wardrobe, and storing items between seasons is covered in seasonal storage.
Trends and the seasonal rhythm
Seasonal collections are one way that style ideas spread: colors, silhouettes and fabrics shown for a season influence what is available in stores, usually with some delay as lower-priced versions are developed. Still, not every item follows a trend, and many garments, such as plain shirts and basic trousers, are carried over from season to season with little change. Staying aware of fashion trends can be interesting, but nothing requires you to follow them closely.
Making use of this as a shopper
- Remember that “new season” is a planning label, not a statement about the weather where you live.
- Look for carryover basics if you prefer pieces that do not date quickly, and consider timeless pieces as part of a wardrobe plan.
- Be aware of release rhythms. Knowing when stores typically bring in a range and when they discount it helps you decide whether to buy now or wait.
- Check the climate fit. Collections are designed for a general audience, so a garment labeled for a season may not suit your local conditions. Fabric choice matters more than the season name.
A calendar that is changing
The fixed twice-a-year model has been under pressure for years. Some designers show fewer collections, combine men’s and women’s shows, or present items that can be bought right away instead of months later. Others make fewer items in more careful quantities. How far these changes will go is uncertain, and different businesses are likely to continue using different rhythms.