Why a few stitches go a long way
Most damage that sends clothes to the back of the closet is small: a button that dropped off, a seam that opened a couple of inches, a hem that came loose. These are usually quick to fix by hand, and learning only a few stitches covers the majority of them. Repairing early also stops small problems from spreading, since a split seam tends to keep tearing under strain.
A small starter kit
You do not need a sewing machine. A tiny kit is usually enough:
- Hand-sewing needles in a couple of sizes, plus a larger one for thick fabric
- All-purpose polyester or cotton thread in neutral colors and in a few shades that match your clothes
- Sharp small scissors
- Pins or sewing clips
- A thimble, if you find pushing the needle uncomfortable
- A few spare buttons, often found on a tag inside the garment
Match the thread color as closely as you can, or go slightly darker, which tends to blend in better than a lighter shade. For sturdy fabrics such as denim or coats, a stronger thread is generally more suitable.
Threading and knotting
Cut a length of thread about as long as your forearm. Longer thread tangles easily. Thread the needle, pull the ends even, and tie a small knot in the end. For extra strength you can double the thread and knot both ends together, which is common when sewing on buttons.
Sewing on a button
- Mark the spot where the old button sat; the leftover thread holes are usually visible.
- Bring the needle up from the underside of the fabric through one hole in the button.
- Place a toothpick, matchstick or pin on top of the button between the holes. This leaves a little slack, called a shank, so the button can sit over the layers of fabric.
- Stitch down through the opposite hole and back up, repeating several times. With a four-hole button, you can sew parallel lines or an X.
- Remove the spacer and pull the button up so the stitches are loose beneath it. Wrap the thread around those stitches a few times beneath the button.
- Push the needle to the back, make a couple of small stitches to lock the thread, and trim.
Coats and thicker fabrics typically need a longer shank, while shirts need very little.
Closing a split seam
When a seam comes apart along its stitching line, you can close it with a simple back stitch, which is strong and looks much like machine stitching.
- Turn the garment inside out and find where the stitching stopped.
- Fold the fabric edges as they were and pin them in place.
- Start a little before the opening, on the original stitching, so you overlap what is already there.
- Bring the needle up, move forward a short distance, and then go back down. Come up again a stitch length ahead and return to the end of the previous stitch.
- Continue along the seam, keeping stitches small and even, and end a little past the opening.
- Knot off on the inside and trim.
If the fabric at the seam is frayed, a short stretch of extra stitching beside the line may help, but keep it neat so the garment does not pucker. Stretchy knit seams need some give, so use a slightly looser tension and small stitches, or a zigzag stitch if you have a machine.
Fixing a loose hem
A hem that has dropped can be secured with a slip stitch, which hides most of the thread. Fold the hem back into position, then pick up one or two threads of the main fabric and slide the needle through the fold edge before repeating. Stitches should be loose enough that they do not pull and show on the outside. For dress trousers and tailored items, a tailor can do this in minutes, and tailoring decisions around fit, shown in guides to clothing alterations, are separate from simple repairs.
Handling small holes and snags
A small tear can be darned or patched, depending on the item. A snagged loop of yarn in a knit is typically pulled to the inside with a needle, not cut, which prevents a run or hole. If a sweater has a hole, a loose stitch repair or an inside patch may hold it, but this is a larger task.
When to leave it to a professional
Mending suits most common problems, but some items are better handled by a specialist, such as zippers on leather, tears in delicate silk, complex lining repairs or anything that affects structure. Sometimes the cost of a professional repair is more than the garment is worth, but for a well-made piece you love, it is often worthwhile. Checking garment quality at purchase, including the strength of seams and buttons, can reduce how often you need to repair.
Making mending a habit
Keep a small basket of items needing repair and set aside ten minutes every few weeks to work through it. As your stitches improve, you can tackle more. Repair keeps clothes in circulation and, for many people, makes a garment feel more personal. Results depend on fabric and practice, and an imperfect stitch that holds is better than a perfect one never made.