The general rule
A tailor works with the fabric and construction that already exist. Taking away material is generally much easier than adding it, and changes to areas that are simple in structure are easier than changes to areas that are complex. That one principle explains most of what follows. It is a useful guide, but each garment is different, so a good tailor’s assessment in person always outranks a general rule.
Specific costs and timing vary by region and by the complexity of the work, so ask for a quote before agreeing to anything.
Usually straightforward
These adjustments are commonly done and generally have predictable results:
- Hems. Shortening trousers, skirts, dresses and sleeves is a routine job. Lengthening depends on how much fabric is folded inside.
- Waist adjustments. Trousers and skirts can often be taken in or, with limits, let out at the waist.
- Side seams. A shirt or dress that is too roomy through the torso can often be taken in.
- Sleeve length. On many garments, sleeves can be shortened from the cuff. On jackets, this depends on the cuff details.
- Replacing fasteners. New buttons, zippers or snaps are common repairs.
- Tapering. Trouser legs can often be narrowed.
Details of these everyday jobs are described in more depth in the guide to hemming, taking in and letting out. The basic point is that these changes use existing seams and extra fabric, so they rarely alter the character of the piece.
Possible but more involved
Some alterations are achievable but need more skill, time and cost, and they carry more risk:
- Jacket and coat sleeves. Shortening from the shoulder is a major job, and not all jackets can be altered this way.
- Jacket body. Taking in the back or sides is possible on many jackets, though linings, vents and pockets complicate the work.
- Shoulders. Adjusting shoulder width is difficult because it affects the armholes, the sleeves and the way the garment hangs. Many tailors advise against it.
- Changing the rise on trousers. This is possible in some designs but depends on construction and available fabric.
- Lined or structured garments. These have inner layers that must also be adjusted.
Where it is possible, expect the result to be a compromise. A tailor may be able to improve a poor fit but not make it perfect.
Often not fixable
Some problems are typically beyond what tailoring can solve:
- Too small with no extra fabric. If the seam allowances are tiny, there is nothing to let out. Matching cloth cannot be added invisibly.
- Major changes in size. Going up or down several sizes usually distorts the design.
- Fundamental proportion problems. A dress with a bodice too short for your torso or a jacket with a collar that does not sit properly can seldom be corrected.
- Shoulder and neckline fit. These are structural. Choose garments that fit well here and adjust elsewhere.
- Fabric faults. Thin, worn, stained or fragile cloth will not improve with alteration and may not tolerate new stitching.
- Patterns and prints. Stripes, plaids and large prints may not match across new seams.
- Special materials. Leather, suede, some delicate or heavily embellished fabrics can mark permanently when stitched, so they are altered only by specialists, if at all.
Understanding garment fit, especially through the shoulders, sleeves and hems, shows which areas to prioritize when trying something on.
Evidence on the garment itself
Inspect a garment to estimate its potential before you buy. Turn it inside out and look at the seam allowances: wide ones suggest more room to move. Check hem depth. See whether there are lots of details, like pockets, darts or linings, around the area that needs adjustment. A close look at garment quality will also tell you whether the piece is sturdy enough to be worth the extra investment.
Deciding whether to buy and alter
Weigh several things:
- Is the problem easy? A hem or a modest waist change is a much safer bet than a structural fix.
- Does the total cost make sense? Add the price of alteration to the price of the item and consider cost per wear.
- Is the fit right in the hard-to-change places? Shoulders, neckline and overall proportions should be good before you buy.
- Will you really wear it? A cheap bargain that needs several alterations is rarely a bargain.
If the piece needs more than one or two minor adjustments, it is generally wiser to look for a better starting fit.
Working with a tailor
Bring the shoes and layers you plan to wear. Describe what bothers you rather than prescribing a solution. Ask what is possible, what the risks are and what the finished look will be. A good tailor will tell you honestly if something should not be attempted. Knowing your own body measurements also helps you communicate clearly.
Tailoring is best thought of as a way to fine-tune a good starting point, not to rebuild a poor one.